Favorite Beef Brisket
This braised beef brisket is a favorite tradition in my family. If time permits, start this recipe about 4 or 5 days before you intend to serve the brisket. That way you’ll have time to season the meat and let it sit in the fridge for a few days before cooking to bring out the best flavors of the beef. As well, if you have time to refrigerate the brisket after cooking, you’ll be able to remove most of the fat that congeals atop the pan juices before reheating.
I like serving brisket with a variety of side dishes, including roasted potatoes or any roasted root vegetables, sautéed cavalo nero (also known as lacinato kale), Tuscan beans or roasted red onions.
Choose a full-bodied red wine for the braising liquid. I like using a peppery Cotes du Rhone or Italian Nebbiolo.
If you’re lucky enough to have leftovers, treat yourself to a cold brisket sandwich on crusty bread with Dijon mustard. It’s as good as anything you’ve ever tasted.
Brisket is technically the chest muscle and has two parts, the first cut and second cut. If you have access to a Jewish butcher shop, ask for a “first cut” or “flat cut” as it’s the leaner and preferred of the two brisket cuts.
Wipe beef with damp cloth and pat dry. Using a sharp knife (a long slender knife, such as a slicing knife, works well; be careful not to cut yourself), trim off excess fat. Then wipe the brisket again with a damp cloth and pat dry. Sprinkle generously with kosher salt all over and place in a shallow porcelain or glass casserole dish and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight or for 2 to 3 days, turning the brisket every 12 hours or so. About a day or two before you plan on serving the brisket, remove from casserole dish and place on clean surface (a stainless steel baking sheet works well) and let get to room temperature. If there’s a lot of moisture on the meat, pat dry with paper towels.
In large heavy braising dish or soup or stew pot that can comfortably accommodate the brisket, heat about 1 tablespoon of olive oil until hot. Add brisket and cook until browned all over, including sides and ends; this can take about 5 or 6 minutes. Remove from pan and set aside.
Drain off excess fat from pan, leaving a thin film. Add onion, carrots, celery, leeks, garlic and bay leaf to pan. Then pour in beef stock and red wine and bring to boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat until liquid is gently simmering. Stir in tomatoes, add bouquet of parsley and thyme and season with coarsely ground pepper. Let simmer for about 5 minutes and taste stock. Add a little salt only if it needs it.
Add brisket to pan, cover and cook for about 3 to 4 hours or until tender, turning halfway through. Check brisket regularly to make sure the liquid is not bubbling too hard. Liquid should come about halfway up sides of brisket; meat should not be swimming in liquid.
When brisket is done (it should be very tender, but not falling apart), turn off heat and let cool. Then remove brisket from braising liquid and wrap well in foil. Strain liquid and place in a covered container. Refrigerate liquid and meat for several hours or overnight.
Several hours before serving, take braising liquid out of fridge and remove any fat that has congealed at the top. Heat braising liquid in pan large enough to reheat brisket. Taste and adjust seasoning. (If necessary, add a little more salt. If liquid is not acidic enough, add a few more chopped tomatoes or even a spoonful of balsamic vinegar.) Add brisket to pan, turn once or twice to moisten meat all over, and turn off heat. Let meat sit in pan juices until shortly before serving time. Then turn heat to medium-low and heat until meat is warmed through.
Just before serving, slice brisket into 1/2-inch slices and arrange on platter. For the best texture, slice meat across the grain. You might have to adjust the angle of the knife a few times to accomplish this. Spoon a little of the braising liquid on top of each slice and place remainder in a bowl with a spoon for passing. If you have any Fleur de Sel, serve it with the brisket.
Carol White
Carol White is a Napa Valley-based food writer and editor who has passionately devoted herself to the study of food and cooking. She was previously based in Toronto, where she worked as a food editor for one of Canada’s most popular magazines, Canadian Living, and edited a weekly food column for Canada’s largest newspaper, The Toronto Star. Carol is also the editor of the highly successful President’s Choice Cookbook and President’s Choice Barbecue Cookbook. Over the years, Carol has evolved a style of cooking that friends call “Cuisine Carolaise.” While not French, per se, Cuisine Carolaise can be described as rustic, clean, rich in flavor and based on the freshest, best-quality ingredients available.