Meat

Favorite Beef Brisket December, 2010

This braised beef brisket is a favorite tradition in my family. If time permits, start this recipe about 4 or 5 days before you intend to serve the brisket. That way you’ll have time to season the meat and let it sit in the fridge for a few days before cooking to bring out the best flavors of the beef. As well, if you have time to refrigerate the brisket after cooking, you’ll be able to remove most of the fat that congeals atop the pan juices before reheating.

Oxtail Braised with Star Anise November, 2010

Oxtail is popular in Chinese cuisine, where sticky gelatinous textures are very much appreciated. Coated in a rich anise-and-soy flavored sauce, even the small pieces with little meat are irresistible. As with all oxtail dishes, make this at least a day in advance so you can chill it and then easily remove the layer of fat and set it aside for cooking. The flavor also improves if the dish is made ahead.

Jean-Michels Cotes de Veau September, 2010

I recently visted my friends Jean-Michel and Jean-Claude in Saint Cyprien, Périgord. They spoiled me with a gastro tour of this famous culinary region of France and treated me to an authentic home cooked recipe: Veal Cutlets in Cream and Mushroom Sause. This dish is extra delicious when served with Pommes de Terres Salardaise, patatoes thinly sliced and sauteed in goose fat.

Slow-cooked Corned Beef May, 2010

I still wonder how my mom used to manage it all. A full-time job and four kids do not make for light work! I think it is fair to say that it’s one thing when you have the time and energy to cook, but when you have to get family meals on the table mid-week, it’s a whole other ball game. One of my mom’s vices was her crockpot (slow cooker), and a family favourite was her corned beef (also known as brisket).

Anne White’s Best-Ever Braised Beef Brisket May, 2010

My mother always made her brisket with the “first cut,” which is the leanest part of the brisket. As well, she used a commercial product called Kitchen Bouquet Browning and Seasoning Sauce, which was popular in the Fifties and Sixties, and which she always considered a miracle ingredient. I believe it’s still available at many food stores. And the Bouquet Garni spice she used was a Spice Island product that was always in her cupboard.

Chipotle Pork and Pepper Tacos January, 2010

My wife and I are fortunate that our neighborhood still is home to a few amazing butchers,  and we are just down the road from the Red Hook Farm which sells meat raised locally on a small scale. It is usually not a question of if we will get some or not, but what cut we will choose and from which animal. I usually vote for pork butt, an underappreciated but super flavorful piece of pig that just needs a little TLC to turn it into something magnificent. Pork butt has nice ribbons of fat that run through it, basting the meat as it slowly cooks, keeping it tender and flavorful.

Guinness and 5-Spice Braised Short Ribs January, 2010

At first glance this might seem like a long laundry list of ingredients but for the most part they are all fairly common items with a few exceptions. You should be able to find tamarind puree in South American, South East Asian or Indian markets. Use what you need for this recipe and freeze the rest in ice cube trays so that you can thaw just as much as you need for future use. If cans of Guinness aren’t common in your household it might be time for a change- they can be bought in packs of 4, so that’s one for the ribs and the other three for you which makes for some pretty good math.

Sliced Suasage December, 2009

Sliced sausage (also called square sausage) is one of the best-kept Scottish secrets – it is a simple mixture of ground beef, egg and mace. It wouldn’t be Christmas morning without the aroma of flat sausage being fried by my dad.

Grilled Lamb Cutlets November, 2009

These cutlets can be grilled outside on the barbecue or inside on the griddle. They are delicious served on a bed of Eggplant Relish.

French Lamb Chops October, 2009

While in San Francisco in a restaurant called Chez Nous, I had these lamb chops and fell in love with them. I persisted until the chef told me how he makes them.

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