There is something symbolic about an animal’s head that makes it taboo territory — a culinary no go zone. Yet the knowledge of what to do with this symbolic centerpiece has become a badge of honor amongst chefs, physical proof that they live by the “waste not want not” creed of the kitchen. Tracing the road back into history shows us that fromage de tête has wavered in its appreciation from regalia for the rich to fodder for the poor. It now nestles quite firmly amongst the latter, cowering behind monikers such as brawn, souse, and scrapple on dingy diner menus.
