Chocolate Meat

Chocolate  meat. Certainly not what you type into a late night Google search unless you want to get an overtly amorous awakening flashing across your screen. These two words do not seem to go together, and most people can live a wonderful life without ever seeing them meet (pardon the pun).

“But what about mole?” you may ask, content that you are the ½ of 1% that can reference this Mexican dish and stand up for the rights of meat and chocolate to live a life of coexistence. The term mole is not reserved as a reference for only the chocolate spiced celebratory dish but an umbrella word that encompasses many sauces used in Mexican cooking. A few years back my culinary travels took me to Oaxaca, which is nicknamed the “land of the seven moles,” and this is where I first met mole poblano. The legendary mole poblano, a turkey dish with a complex sauce containing chocolate, is indeed a nexus where animal and chocolate collide, sometimes harmoniously and sometimes a clash of savory and sickly sweet. The origin of this unusual dish is a matter of debate, although I am partial to the one that involves a bit of divine intervention. The story goes that the 16th century nuns at Puebla’s Santa Rosa Convent got word that the Archbishop was on his way for an unexpected visit. The nuns did what they do best and got to praying for guidance. An angel came to their rescue and took hold of their hands, guiding them through the complex process of chopping and grinding the chocolate, nuts, chili peppers, and thirty or so other ingredients into a slow-cooked spicy success.

And why should chocolate not compliment meat? Chocolate, in its raw form, is not in the least bit sweet. If our friends at Wikipedia can be trusted, we learn that its ancient consumption method, a drink, was termed xocolatl, which means bitter water. It’s not until the Willy Wonka’s of the world got their hands on the rich, robust, raw product and augmented it with great lashings of sugar and fat (and sometimes dairy) that the cacao transformed into sweet foil-wrapped dreams come true.

But the closer we get to the unadulterated cacao, the closer we get to an ingredient that can balance salty or spicy notes, match smoky flavors, or complement the funky richness of game meat. And wine? Most of the complex nuances that cocoa carry are shared with the big reds that work naturally with these meats. The tannin, astringency, and richness of chocolate help bridge the gap between the dish and the drink.

At the restaurant we take these ideas in all sorts of directions. I serve spicy wild boar sausage with a black bean and chocolate puree. Delicious. Last winter our guests all went gaga for a cocoa and five-spiced braised venison. Liver mousse even gets an upgrade with roasted grapes and a maple-bitter chocolate sauce.

But, the easiest way for the weekend culinary warrior to see the harmony that can come from such mixed marriages is when bacon enters the equation. Bacon has some kind of magical affinity with chocolate and has recently been part of a renaissance in the realm of chocolate chip cookies, candy bars, and cakes. It is the salty, smoky side of bacon that allows it to be balanced with a touch of sweetness, and chocolate’s deep richness benefits from just a pinch of salt to bring out the best it has to offer. It’s a rare case where both sides benefit from each other, and I am not immune to the sirens’ call.

With Valentine’s Day just around the corner, remember that nothing says an indulgent “I love you” like chocolate, unless it’s chocolate salty pork parts. Show your nearest and dearest that you care with some chocolate piggy popcorn. They deserve it, and so do you.

Chocolate Piggy Popcorn Recipe