Soup's On: Sausage and Bean Soup with Cavalo Nero

Given a choice between an elaborate, multi-course dinner at a fancy restaurant or a home-cooked bowl of my favorite bean soup with a luscious bottle of red and a crusty baguette, there’s no contest. Sure it’s fun dining at great restaurants and sampling complex preparations you’re not likely to cook at home. But most nights I love eating simple, peasant fare at my own table, sometimes preceded with a plate of prosciutto and hunk of Parmigiano Reggiano, sometimes followed with a salad of mixed greens.

I’d have to admit that most of my favorite dishes are as cozy as my plaid flannel pajamas. Soups, stews, pasta with meat sauce, beans, braised meats. But as I mentally scroll down the list of cherished recipes, I have to award first prize to this thick, satisfying and delicious Sausage and Bean soup with Cavalo Nero.

Cavalo nero is one of my favorite greens and one that adds great flavor and texture to Italian-style soups. If the name doesn’t ring a bell, you might know it by its other names, such as dinosaur kale, lacinato kale or Tuscan kale. Of course, if you can’t find it in your local market, you can substitute other types of kale or savoy cabbage.

I often make this soup early in the day and let it sit at room temperature for several hours before serving. Or you can make the beans in the morning and prepare the remainder of the dish several hours later. After you’ve made this a few times, you’ll develop your own rhythm and your own variations. For example, in summer, I frequently substitute fresh tomatoes for the canned variety. Or I experiment with other sausages then the hot and sweet Italian variety listed in the ingredients.

My husband and resident wine maven, Jim, usually selects an Italian Chianti or other Sangiovese-based wine to accompany this dish. He also recommends serving it with a Spanish Priorat or Rioja or well-aged Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

Before you start, here’s one of my favorite shortcuts when using canned whole tomatoes that are to be drained and chopped. Remove the lid from the can of tomatoes (I recommend a can opener that takes the entire top off and doesn’t leave any sharp edges). Then cover the top of the can with your hand and invert into the sink to drain out most of the liquid. Next, carefully reach into the can and break up the tomatoes with your fingers, which will release more liquid and seeds; again cover top of can with your hand, invert, and pour out most or all of the liquid, as you prefer. At this point, you can pour the tomatoes into your pot or bowl, or, if you want them chopped finer, you can first place them on a cutting board and chop, then return to the can and add them to your preparation. After doing this a few times, you’ll see how easy and fast this step is and how much time and clean-up it saves.

Sausage and Bean Soup with Cavalo Nero Recipe

Photography by Jim White