Poor collard greens. At your green grocers, you’ll find them rudely crammed together with all the other unsexy vegetables: kale, turnip greens, mustard greens and dandelion leaves, their nearest neighbours the barnacle-like lumps of celery root and kohlrabi. The star vegetables—broccolini, asparagus, endive and woodland mushrooms—get the prime real estate. Here in Canada, the collard greens are shunted away from the stoplight, but their Q-score really spikes in the American South, where, along with black-eyed peas, grits and cornbread, they form the spine of fine Southern cooking.