Debunking Soup Myths

Soup is one of those dishes – like meatloaf or casseroles – that is easy to make but tricky to make a really good one.

Being a restaurant reviewer, I have had some exquisite soups but also lots of impossibly bad ones.

Recently, a food writer commented on Twitter that he doesn’t eat soup from restaurants. Breakfast buffets or “fine dining” establishments in strip malls, sure, but no soup for you? How sad.

I also find it fascinating how people react to soup at dinner parties. Those who cook excitedly whisper among themselves – Did he use powdered mushrooms in the broth? Do you think he cooked the onions separately? – while the rest of the guests look on as if they’ve been cheated somehow, like it’s not a worthy course.

Having made hundreds of bowls and tasted as many in restaurants, I’d like to take this opportunity to debunk some soup myths. I’m no America’s Test Kitchen; I’m just a girl who loves to eat and cook and who has learned some hard lessons along the way.

1. Most people will tell you that making your own stock is the key to a good soup. While that’s true, it’s absolutely possible to make an outstanding pot with a low-salt, organic broth in a can or Tetra Pak.

2. Recently I was in a very high-end restaurant kitchen, and I saw them make cream soup from scratch. They used a lot of cream and butter. Despite this example, this is not the standard (unless you’re dining in classical French restaurants). In fact, often you’ll hear your server announcing the specials, adding that the cream soup, in fact, doesn’t contain any cream. Ask, if you’re worried about the fat/calories, but here’s my opinion: Watch what you eat at home, but indulge in the expert’s creations.

3. Perhaps you’ve been told in the past that restaurant soups are made from leftovers and ends from the previous day. That may or may not be true, but if it is, don’t automatically consider that to be a bad thing: A chef might not be able to plate a certain piece of meat, but that doesn’t mean it won’t bring great depth to a pot of soup. Some of the best I’ve ever had were created from bones, shells and leftover meat and veg.

4. Soup doesn’t have to be relegated a starter. There are hearty ones out there that can stand alone as a meal (I call noodle soups a “meal in a bowl”) or just need some fresh bread and a simple salad to round them out. If you don’t believe me, just try it. You might be surprised.

5. One of the best ways to make soup is to use either fresh or leftover ingredients, water or stock, fresh or dried seasonings and a hand immersion blender. I throw everything into my tall stockpot, let it all get to know one another and then blend it into a silky, sexy puree.

If I'm not creating something ad hoc out of leftovers in the fridge, I make soups like this: