Food Artisan

Vegetables March, 2011

Vegetables seem to be in a constant struggle with meat. One is either a meat eater (who categorizes vegetables as a “side” or second-class citizen!) or a vegetarian (for whom life is only green and squash!).

My Lebanese childhood memories are divided into weekdays and Sundays: Weekday meals were mainly vegetarian – “akl b’ zeit,” or “oil dishes” as we call them (not that they are too oily; it just means that these dishes are vegetarian) – while Sunday lunches were built around meat – a barbecue chicken, “raa’beh,” stuffed lamb’s “neck,” kebbeh….

Soup and Tea January, 2011

In Lebanon, soup and tea have something in common. Not their ingredients not a preparation trick … but the fact that both have the reputation of being able to cure the sick. If one falls ill, both are consumed in quantities. If you offer someone tea, he/she would in surprise and wonder and ask you if you though he/she is sick.

Regal at Home and on the Town December, 2010

Mmmm! I adore the word “regal” and how it applies to food and celebration! There is such enormous pleasure to be found in sharing and feting with friends and loved ones over a feast and a cup or two of good cheer. In Lebanon, we truly enjoy hosting and honouring guests – it’s in our DNA to do so. Throughout the year it can be simple or grand, but during holiday times and special occasions it can be over-the-top. Either way, it is a gift from the heart and always done with love.

Japan’s Epiphany November, 2010

Japan is a world onto its own; it is a land of order, respect, organization and perfection. A visit to Japan leaves an indelible impression. Personally, my life is divided – before and after Japan, BJ and AJ if you like.

After years of Japanese “avant-gout” learned through my macrobiotic cooking studies and constant craving for Japanese food, I finally had the opportunity to visit Tokyo for “Beirut to Tokyo” an event organized by Tyler Brulé’s Monocle Magazine.

To Worry or Not to Worry October, 2010

For the last several years I have found myself spending much of the month of September in New York City. I attend the United Nations General Assembly. So at this time of year I am able to catch up with many friends who also attend, and of course New York is just that kind of city; people are always passing through, a great place to intersect with old friends and acquaintances.

An Aroma, A Season and A National Identity September, 2010

Tomatoes are an integral part of Lebanese culture and cuisine and an annual topic of debate. Tomatoes are an aroma, a month and a part of our national identity.

Tomatoes are at their prime in the month of September. They are meaty and rich in flavour and perfect for tomato paste. The is nothing like the smell of a wood fire (often fragrant, resinous pine) heating a desset (Harry Potter-style huge copper cauldron) full of bubbling deep-red tomato sauce being reduced until thick and metamorphosed into tomato paste.

Of Land and Sea August, 2010

Welcome, once again, to Lebanon’s schizophrenia! It’s always about day and night, left and right, north and south – mountain and sea.

Lebanese cuisine has two faces: private – home cuisine; and public – mezze and festive food. Mezze displays that schizophrenia too, with two identities: mountain and sea.

The Colour of Life June, 2010

Green is the color of life, of spring and of new beginnings. In a never-ending cycle, spring brings warmth and new growth, year after year. In our part of the world, Adonis, the gorgeous lover of Astarte (Aphrodite) is a symbol and a hero of spring. But in his version, spring is announced by a red flower, anemones, and not by green!

Seeds of Life April, 2010

Rice makes me think of another seed (or cereal) of ours … burghol (cracked wheat). It also brings to mind the famous proverb “el ezz lal roz, wl burgol chana’ h’allo,” which basically means “Glory to everything imported, foreign and new, like rice, and the old, original and native, like burgholwill disappear!”

Laban and Loubnan March, 2010

This story begins with a wedding. Ezzat Majed, a grandfather, is proud that he only had to leave his beloved Chouf Mountains once in his 85 years of life, and that was to buy a suit for his wedding many years ago. He and his cousin went down to Beirut; one bought the jacket, the other bought the trousers. The suit was worn in its entirety for Ezzat’s wedding the first week and for his cousin’s wedding the second. He and his wife, Abla, have remained on the mountain ever since, taking care of a herd of 500 goats and producing the best serdeleh cheese, which Abla preserves in old jars.

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