Espresso Corretto

Rich desserts, cheese platters and decaffeinated coffee at the end of a big dinner are so… 2009.

Of all the ways to end a grande bouffe, the only item, which I have long been compelled to order, is a “fortified espresso.” The beverage is called “caffe corretto,” in Italy, where the concoction originated.

“Caffe corretto,” also called “espresso corretto,” simply means a “corrected” coffee. It’s a thimbleshot of espresso to which one adds a tablespoon, or more, of grappa, a digestive, or a flavored liqueur. It makes the coffee experience slightly sweeter and the digestive helps process all that food you’ve wolfed down.

Bitters such as Fernet-Branca, Branca-Menta, or Cynar, lesser known Italian digestive drinks, or popular liqueurs, can help settle your stomach after a big meal; the alcohol is a nice end-cap to dinner, and helps the flavor of the espresso linger. That’s a win-win-win in my gastronomic world.

Nash Cognetti, the executive chef at Tra Vigne, in St. Helena, Napa Valley, thinks it’s time to shine a spotlight on “corretto.” He’s put “espresso corretto” on his dessert menu: a shot of Illy café with a 1.5-ounce serving of your choice of rocket fuel – grappa, Fernet-Branca, Branca-Menta, or Sambuca.

Caffe corretto is thought to have originated in Naples, according to a food blogger named Barbara, who lives in that city and who writes colorfully about her Neapolitan life.

“The tradition of correcting coffee with alcohol very likely started in the 1800's during a time when coffee became an ubiquitous beverage in Naples thanks to the caffettiere ambulante or wandering coffee peddlers. These men yelled out to customers in the early morning hours:  "Vulite na tazzuella di caffe?"  They wore aprons and set up tables along the street replete with small burners, cups, saucers, sugar, and a bottle of rum.” Barbara continues:

“Today, at ten in the morning, I see quite a few men drinking caffe corretto before heading off to work. The portions are so small that the caffe has a bite, but not much more.”

Italians mostly infuse their ”caffe corretto” with grappa, Sambuca, or digestive liqueurs like Fernet-Branca.

Americans sometimes turn to whiskey, brandy, Baileys Irish Cream, Kalhua, or Scotch for blending purposes.

But the idea is to add just enough liqueur to the hot, concentrated, just-made espresso to fortify it, and give it a spine of flavor. You should still taste coffee in an espresso corretto; if you don’t, you have added too much liqueur.

Puzzled at how I might illustrate this short piece on espresso corretto, I had my “Eureka!” moment walking down a street in Seattle, WA, last month. In the window of a fabulous vintage poster shop was a dramatic, original poster for a carbonated Italian digestive called Chinotto.

I asked Michael Maslan, owner of Vintage Posters, if I might take photos of the vintage posters relating to my theme. He was plenty friendly, like everyone I met in Seattle, and pulled out several posters.

If you are looking for original posters on travel themes, Michael is a source. His store is at 109 University St., Seattle, WA, 98101. Phone 206-587-0187. Don’t be surprised if the store is closed when you drop by; better to make an appointment by phone. As the sign says in the window: Hours by Chance or Appointment.

If anyone is looking for an espresso corretto, head to your nearest Italian sports bar, Ital-taverna, or the next time you are in St. Helena, mosey up to the bar at Tra Vigne and ask Eileen to make you one.