Perigord a Personal Tour
“Périgordians have a lower rate of heart disease and other cholesterol-related issues because of the high incidence of goose fat in our diets,” boasted my friend Jean-Claude. He and his partner, Jean-Michel, long-time friends from Paris, have often invited me to visit them at their country house in Jean-Claude’s hometown of Saint Cyprien, in the heart of Périgord. At last I was able to accept their gracious invitation, and I was treated to a private tour of the region, by two proud locals, and happily forced to indulge in the culinary splendor of this famous French paradise.
Like most folks, for me the name Périgord summoned the image of truffle hunts and foie gras. While these are indeed typical of this county in southwestern France, the array of gourmet products produced here are far more vast and varied. This lush countryside is overflowing with groves of walnut trees; the nuts and the oil they produce are used in many traditional recipes of the region, imparting a rich, nutty flavour. Goose fat, a by-product of foie gras production, is used as a cooking oil and ingredient that adds a delicious gaminess, which is classically Périgordian. As well as numerous variations on the original foie gras recipe, there are many sausages and cured meats typical here. The duck sausage from Arvouet, Jean-Claude’s and Jean-Michel’s favourite “artisan conservier,” has become my new gastro-porn fantasy – it’s so intensely delicious that it induces an ecstatic response. We spent well over an hour at Arvouet, sampling their delights and choosing treasures like truffle-infused oils, confit de canard, chocolate fois gras and, of course, goose fat, that I could take back and share with friends in New York. Monsieur Arvouet is the fifth generation of Arvouets overseeing this family business, a true Périgordian maintaining long-held recipes and proprietary secrets.
Not only was I indulged and delightfully satiated by the local culinary offerings and warm hospitality, I was overwhelmed by the spectacular beauty of Périgord itself: the endless small villages, each with their own unique charm; the enormous chateaux that punctuate the rolling hills covered with leafy green deciduous growth; and the river valleys that are rich with agriculture nourished by the Dordogne River. It’s no wonder that this is where Josephine Baker chose to settle and raise her brood of adopted children when it was time to make her escape from Paris.
Périgord is a beautiful land, lush with agriculture and natural beauty, with sublime architecture, from the grand to the not so grand. This region, with its noble history, has produced some of the most important French culinary traditions, and it’s also home to my friends Jean-Claude and Jean-Michel, to whom I will be forever grateful for introducing me to the joys of goose fat.
Jean-Michel’s Veal in Champignons de Paris and Creme Fraiche Sauce Recipe*
Jean-Michel’s Pomme de Terre Sarladaise Recipe*
*Both cooked with goose fat from Arvouet.
Arvouet
24480 le Buisson
05 53 22 00 37
Grant Innes
Innes has never really considered himself a gourmet, but he does truly and sincerely live up to the title of gourmand. Having learned to embrace his indulgent love of life he has found his bliss. Born on the suburban outskirts of Halifax, Nova Scotia. Innes grew up surrounded by spectacular nature and Canadian goodness, yet always dreamed of a bigger and slightly less protestant world. Innes studied cinema in Montreal and followed that vocation for several years in various locations across Canada before discovering his talents as a painter, writer and illustrator. One children’s book, endless commercial gigs, and a dozen or so solo shows later, he now resides in New York City. Frequently, along the way, he has been spoiled by friends, family and a few world-renowned chefs, who in turn have delighted in his love of their gastronomic creations. Innes is always in search of his next delicious experience.