Robert et Louise

Like many travelers who go to Paris in search of Old World charm, I like to step off the trendmill and go back in time; be lulled gently to a less hectic era that is not hyper-technical, somewhere soulful and soothing with a slower rhythm. A place where I can clear my head of busy thoughts and find the invaluable calm that comes from a peaceful mind and a tranquil soul.

Robert et Louise, Restaurant de Feu (Restaurant of Fire) is exactly that kind of place. Meals are still prepared in the fireplace, just as they were 60 years ago. Opened in post-World War II Paris, this little haunt in the Marais is situated in the most ancient part of the city.

The windows and door have red-and-white-checked cotton curtains, which help shelter the restaurant from the chicness that has over taken this sought-after quartier. The façade is flat, and there is barely a transition from the narrow stone sidewalk into the dining space. The smell of the wood-burning fireplace comes into focus upon entering the warm interior, well-worn and dark with exposed wooden beams. An iron slab is propped up in the open fireplace, blackened and seasoned from the many meals that have been cooked upon it.

The menu includes traditional fare such as confit de canard, boudin (blood sausage), rabbit, cuts of lamb and beef. The meats sizzle in the flames, a few pieces at a time. They are prepared as the order is taken and are cooked to the specifications of each patron. There are not a lot of sauces here — meats are grilled and served simply with roasted potato or a bit of salad. The flavors are uncomplicated and hearty. Staying for a cheese course is a wonderful way to linger and enjoy the glow of the fireplace and another glass or two of wine.

The proprietors are warm and welcoming. Madame Georget, daughter of Robert and Louise, manages the restaurant. Her son, Denis, works as a waiter. This is a family-run restaurant, and it is easy to sense the pride that keeps it true to what it has always been; a welcoming neighborhood eatery. There are no small tables, so you may have the good fortune to meet fellow diners; most of the tables end up being communal as the restaurant inevitably fills up to capacity.

Almost every seat has at least a partial view of the fireplace, which is at the end of the long space. It is truly mouth-watering to see your choice cut of meat sizzling in front of you on the open flames. Dinner at Robert et Louise truly offers a sensory richness that gives you permission to get lost in time, to close the doors to the business of the world around you, and have a magical dining experience that fills your belly and warms your soul.

Robert et Louise - 64 rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Paris  01 42 78 55 89