A Truffle Hunting Trip
When Thanksgiving rolls around, naturally one thinks of family, fun and feasting on good old American classics. We were graciously invited to a lovely Thanksgiving dinner, but we decided instead to go to South of France on a hunting trip – no, not to shoot rare breeds of birds but to find a rare breed of fungi called Tuber melanosporum, the rare and elusive winter black truffle. We planned the entire trip around this event; we even selected the right outfits for such an occasion. What does one wear to hunt truffles with dogs anyway?
Upon arriving in Provence, we were met with torrential rain and cold weather. When the day arrived for this much-anticipated journey, we were saddened to find out that it had been annulé (cancelled) because the season was late this year in the Bouches-du-Rhône region and, consequently, there were no truffles to be found.
While we had visions of truffle fairies dancing in our heads, we realized that we needed to find a restaurant that would have these little delicacies brought in from another region of the south. We decided to have dinner at the Restaurant Mogador at Château d’Estoublon and reserved in advance with full inquiries as to whether truffles were on the menu that night or not – a question one must always pose because some restaurants change the menu nightly.
Château D’Estoublon is on the edge of a town called Fonvielle, a magnificent 48-acre property with vineyards and olive groves, and owned by the Schneider family, who also owns Breitling watches. This château is a must-visit for lovers of wine and fine delicacies such as olive oils, tapenades and a curated selection of delicious provençale treats, all sold in the boutique on the main floor.
Upon arriving, we were told that the chef had prepared an entire menu with truffles – even dessert – and that it would be a prix fixe. We were so thrilled, we didn’t even question the menu – which, for New Yorkers, showed remarkable restraint.
The evening was pure bliss, and the aroma of every course was truly enchanting. While we didn’t find any of the truffles ourselves, we were certainly captivated by each bite as the evening unfolded and we were served one course after the next.
Truffled Egg in a Beef Sauce with Cream
This delight is served in a clear glass with sage leaves. Nothing complements truffles better than the richness of eggs.
Truffled Scallops
A scallop trio: a layering of scallop carpaccio and thin truffle slices, a small glass of cubed with scallops and crème frâiche with tiny truffle pieces and a pan seared scallop topped with truffle shavings.
Truffled Foie Gras
Foie gras with truffles resting on a biscuit and served with a sweet-onion confit.
Grilled Salmon with Truffle Sauce
Lightly grilled salmon on a bed of leeks and served with a truffled cream sauce.
Truffled Brie de Meaux with Arugula
A brie that has been aged in a cave is surrounded with truffles and served with an arugula salad with walnuts.
A Chocolate Tarte and Chocolate Mousse
A chocolate tarte infused with truffles and a chocolate mousse with truffle shavings and gooseberry coulis.
Rony Zibara
Editor-In-Chief and the gourmand-gourmet behind Poetry of Food; a food memoir which has been in preparation since he was a child. His earliest memories are in the kitchen with his mother cooking French and Lebanese dishes, and with his South American grandmother making Spanish dishes as the cook prepared a repertoire of salsas and sauces. Having grown up in Beirut and lived between Paris, Toronto and now New York, Rony’s food and travel experiences have always been part of his personal cuisine. An avid storyteller, he believes it’s not about the size of the catch, but about the day. It’s the experience, the setting, the people, and most importantly, the ingredients that turn the meal and the flavors into a memory. While not a professionally trained chef, Rony is a cook by all counts; his life revolves around the culinary joys of food, searching out new ingredients, new recipes, and new cultures. And while he loves the restaurant scene, he is not an obsessed follower. Rony’s food passions lie in the poetry of the everyday meal and not in the pursuit of the absolute ‘best’ or perfect meal. His extensive career in innovating and branding new products and experiences has been a great support and backdrop for his passions in food culture and is evident in the overall design and presentation of this food memoir.