A Colourful Fishing Village

Burano sounds like Murano, but that is where the similarities end. And while this little island a mere 30 minutes from Venice via the vapporati (water bus) may be known for its production of lacework, I feel fairly convinced it should be famous instead for Trattoria al Gatto Nero da Ruggero.

I knew nothing of Burano, apart from what I had quickly read in a dated guidebook that was kicking around the little Venetian flat in which I was staying. The manager of this flat told me that if I were planning a visit to Murano, I shouldn't miss Burano, as the two islands are so completely different. She was right. The sun was not out on the day I arrived but it didn’t matter — the little island lights up whether the sun is shining or not. This charming fishing village is a myriad of colourful pastel houses, row upon row. For a brief moment I wondered, Am I still in Italy? Such a contrast from the Venetian architecture! Apart from purchasing the recommended biglietto dodici ori (12-hour travel card), there was absolutely no plan at hand – the trip was going to be a bit of a “let's just see” kind of discovery that often happens when travelling. However, when hunger strikes (and one becomes what's affectionately known as "hangry"), suddenly you find yourself needing a plan. I've never pinned myself as an eavesdropper, however when you're in a foreign country and you overhear a familiar English word or two, it’s hard not to tune in. Oh, how glad I was that I overheard this particular conversation! It was about a rendezvous with friends at a restaurant, Gatto Nero, and the excitement that was felt about eating there. That was all I needed: I (and my stomach) was convinced that I should follow suit and head to this place.

The island is tiny you can’t help but stumble into al Gatto Nero. And when I did, I suddenly wished I had a reservation – it was very busy, and even though I knew nothing of this restaurant, I was instantly sure I had to eat there. It was the height of the off-season yet this place was packed. After I inquired about a table (a little sheepishly given I had no reservation), the host offered us two glasses of prosecco and told us to hang tight, it wouldn’t be long. Yeah! And a glass of prosecco while you wait. How civil!

This meal was all about fish and seafood. The primi was risotto Buranello. During the short wait for a table, I was told that this was a must-have. And after eating it, I resolved that if it were the last risotto I'd ever eat, that would be OK because it was the best one I have ever tasted. The creamy texture and the delicate, rich taste of the tiny brown shrimp were superb. Spoonful after spoonful — I could have just kept eating. I have since learned that the chef/owner Ruggero Bovo is a bit of a superstar because of his risotto (and rightly so). Word on the street is that Jamie Oliver came directly to him to learn his technique.

Next, a gorgeous plate of fried calamari. I know many reading this may think: fried calamari is fried calamari. But it's not. Trust me. Crispy (not greasy) outside, and tender (not rubbery) inside. The way it should be. A glass (or two) of prosecco later, life was looking good! Once again, not having a plan paid off, and the food I was eating was making me very happy. It was turning into a food moment to remember.

When the mixed seafood and fish plate arrived, I got excited all over again. Saint Peter’s fish, langoustines, cuttlefish and a side of grilled white polenta. What a surprise: white polenta! Ah, but no surprise: Soon there was not a speck of food left on my plate. Chunks of panettone lightly dusted with icing sugar (not a raisin in sight, just the way I like it) and a luxurious zabaione for dipping were the perfect finish.

What can I say, this was simple, fresh, flawless food. This kitchen really cares about (not to mention knows) what it is doing. Unexpected food heaven — I love it when this happens.