Seafood by the Sea

Lebanon is once again the number one hot spot of the Middle East—this time in a good way. Tourists are pouring in from all over the globe. The sexy and diverse capital city, Beirut, is crammed with chic bars and restaurants that draw the beautiful people. Local posh beach clubs, like La Plage and St. George, look like they are holding casting calls for a D&G advertising campaign. Tanned, tight bodies are everywhere. Summer in Beirut is steamy, gorgeous and fab.

Lebanon is a tiny country of 10,400 square kilometers, but that small land mass is packed with snow-capped mountains, vast agricultural valleys, rolling green hills and enormous national pride, « the best country in the whole-wide world. » Lebanon’s 225 kilometers of Mediterranean coastline stretches from the southern border with Israel to the northern border with Syria. Doted along this series of magnificent beaches, are cities that have seen a multitude of foreign rulers and occupiers, from the Greeks onwards. The Phoenicians (1550 BC – 300 BC), the ancient peoples of Lebanon, were enterprising merchants who moved their wares up and down the coast and throughout the Mediterranean, from seaport to seaport, via ships. Towns, now part of modern day Lebanon, such as Tyre, Batroun and Jbeil are stepped with history and ruins from every era of antiquity. They are thought to be among the oldest cities in the world.

North of Jbeil, where the ancient ruins of Byblos are located, is a small unpretentious beach club called Bonita Bay. This simple yet spectacular private beach has bamboo umbrellas, cushioned chaise longues and small, feather grey pebbles that make that beautiful rustle as the waves tumble the stones, one over the other.  The sea is aqua blue and teeming with sea life. Upon arrival, waiters and beach personnel are there to help you find your perfect place by the sea, bring you a coffee, spring water from the mountains behind you, or even carrots sticks bathed in fresh lemon juice for snacking. If you like being well served, Lebanon will satisfy that urge.

After a morning of swimming in the Mediterranean Sea and sunbathing under the ancient sky there is only one cure for the salty taste in your mouth, an Almaza, the Lebanese national beer. This crisp Pilsner hits the spot and prepares you for the gastronomic treats that will follow.

The menu at Bonita Bay has a broad array of Lebanese mezze with an extensive seafood selection, which by the way, is caught daily and freshly prepared. Chances are that one of those little critters you saw while snorkeling in the blue waters that morning will be part of your midday meal.

A typical lunch spread at Bonita will consist of an order of hummus chickpea dip, baba ghanouj, fattouch salad, and most importantly small smelts. Of course freshly baked pita bread to help you scoop up every last bite. If you have never been lucky enough to sample this variety of smelts, or bizri as they are called here, you have to understand that they are the French fries of the sea. Typically they are 2 inches (5 cm) long and lightly floured before they are deep-fried. The result is a crispy and delicious mouth watering delight. This crunchy little fish is eaten entirely—head included—simply squeeze lemon juice on top and devour.

Whether you are looking for quaint and low key, chic and over-the-top, or something in-between, Lebanon has it all. It’s a tiny country with an enormous heart. The land and the people are proud to share the overflowing bounty of this ancient and vibrant place, its history, gorgeous beaches and most importantly delicious food served in generous quantities. Lebanese hospitality ensures that you are always satiated.  However, one is left with the question: how do the Lebanese all look so good when they are surrounded by such copious gastronomic delights?