Delightfully Turkish
I had no idea what to expect from my visit to Istanbul. But I was on a mission, to find the most delectable Turkish Delight, far removed from the sweet, gelatinous pink lumps that we can buy in England.
I knew Istanbul was bewitching, particularly Old Istanbul, but I had no idea that Istanbul was “hot.” Not the weather — it was late fall and raining — but the “happening” restaurants and bars, of which there are more than exquisite Ottoman mosques, domes and delicate minarets.Well, almost....
Istanbul is the only city in the world to span two continents (Europe and Asia), which gives the city a distinctive and exotic flavour. Centuries of Roman occupation, through the splendours of Byzantium to the glories of Ottoman Constantinople, have created a cosmopolitan city ripe for exploration. Located in a prime position on the Bosphorous Strait, Istanbul encompasses the natural harbour known as the Golden Horn.
A boat ride down the Bosphorous to one of the wonderful fish restaurants makes an excellent trip, with stunning views and buildings along the way. Of course, you will visit the Blue Mosque and gaze at the wonders of Aya Sofya, the former Byzantine church built during the reign of Emperor Justinian and his powerful Empress Theodora, after whom I was named. (My father never told me that she was actually a tart who made good!) Almost as amazing, and so unexpected, is the Basilica Cistern. This extraordinary subterranean structure, a world of arches and columns, cool and watery, was built by Justinian in 532 AD to provide water to the city. The enormous Topkapi Palace, with its opulent Harem and rooms full of jewels, is high on the list of “must-sees.”
But if you only have time for one shopping spree, go to the Misir Carsisi — the Egyptian (or Spice) Bazaar — where you will find every spice you will ever need, and many that you did not know existed. The scents and colours are almost overwhelming, the little shops within neat and tidy, with everything laid out to view and to taste. Turkish Delight is on every stall, in a myriad of flavours and colours. I tried them all until I found one made with grenadine and pistachios that tasted utterly delicious.
I managed to get a couple of (slightly different) recipes, and I thought I would try to make some back home. Well, I tried one recipe but unfortunately it did not set firmly enough. It was, frankly, a bit of a sticky mess. And it took ages! However, it smelled really authentic, just like Turkish Delight should smell. So I felt quite proud of myself, but no-one ate it. Next, I tried the other recipe, and cut the block into squares with scissors, but I could not work out how to stop the jelly from sweating as soon as the icing sugar was applied. It was another unattractive plateful. I would love to know what I did wrong!
My advice: go to Istanbul as soon as you can. You’ll love it. Visit the Spice Market and buy the most delicious Turkish delight and the freshest Pistachios you will ever taste. They will vacuum-pack everything for you so that it stays perfectly fresh.
Theo Hodges
Theo Hodges was born in Kent. After a degree in Graphic Design she joined J. Walter Thompson Advertising Agency as an Art Director working on accounts such as Rowntrees, Kraft and The Butter Council. While she was at University in Perugia, Italy she started collecting recipes from friends and family. In 1980 she set up her own design agency: Theo Hodges Design Consultants. For many years when they were young Theo, her sister and six cousins used to spend vacations at her Grandmother’s Victorian vicarage in Kent. ‘The thing about remembering childhood’ she says, is ‘there’s a whole lot of oblivion, and then out of it something floats up, quite sharp and clear. Many of the meals I can still see vividly and various recipes of mine were originally from Granny’s kitchen. ‘The kitchen garden was stuffed with raspberries, huge red dessert gooseberries, strawberries, runner beans, peas and much more with the hens in a shed at the back. But Granny only ate chicken breast and runner beans, followed by raspberries and Jersey cream - and therefore so did we. When raspberries were out of season, and in those days the season was much shorter, Granny made Victoria sponge cakes sandwiched with cream and home-made raspberry jam. On this limited but delicious diet we all thrived’. Theo’s mother was an excellent cook as well, and had been taught by the house- keeper at their house in Mougins, South of France. And once rationing was withdrawn in England in 1952 and good, fresh ingredients became available again, she amassed an enormous number of recipes which has formed the basis for Theo’s collection of family desserts.