When I am not rushed, I find cooking the most restful and soothing of all occupations; to beat and baste, to peel and chop and slice; to taste and test and stir wonderful fresh ingredients is ‘therapy’ enough for me. But when it comes to seafood - scallops, mussels, oysters, lobsters, crab - I start to panic. How can it be really fresh when I live in London or deep in the heart of the Cotswolds? So I leave it all to Paul Wadham, chef at Tresanton, in the seaside village of St Mawes, and when I need my ‘fix’ I head down to Cornwall...