Peace, Love & Tacos

Tacombi at Fonda Nolita, located in the heart of New York’s Nolita neighbourhood (i.e. North of Little Italy) is a cultural fusion of sorts; a Mexican beach party in the midst of hipster heaven. It was created by the dashing Dario Wolos, who is himself a cultural melange; born to a Mexican mother and a French father, his childhood was spent hopping from country to country.

It is rather a transcendental experience to step from the chill of a New York winter into the whimsically decorated Tacombi. When you cross the threshold you are greeted by garlands of lights strung across the ceiling; brightly painted brand logos decorate the walls, tables and other surfaces. In the centre of this vast concrete space, which began its life as a metal shop, is a taco combi (taco minivan). The red-and-white vintage Volkswagen van has its top levered open so the cook can stand within; it is here that the tacos are made, in the tiny kitchen that has been fitted inside the old van. The whole thing comes together as “contemporary cool” yet evokes a bygone era of peace, love and innocence; rare sentiments in our fast-paced world.

The New York location, in its infancy, was inspired by Wolos’s similar, though actually outdoor, set-up in the Mexican resort town of Playa del Carmen. Wolos brought the combi to New York from his Playa del Carmen location. He smiles as he says, “The rust on the van is authentic, a result of the sea salt from the beach.”

Wolos worked with the well-known chef Aaron Sanchez to develop the recipes for the restaurant. Wolos keeps a hand in the business on a daily basis and continues to tweak the recipes and develop new ones. Tacombi serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and is available for special events. The menu changes frequently and always has a variety of other traditional offerings besides tacos—try a hearty breakfast of eggs, beans and rice.

Wolos holds dear his mother’s homemade recipes and the memories of her meals that, when he was a child, transported him to Mexico no matter where in the world he actually was. This is at the core of his inspiration, as well as his love of Mexican culture and his fascination with the vast diversity of cuisine the country offers.

Wolos explains that the taco truck is a great social leveller. In Mexico City, with its vibrancy and enormous social contrasts, it is common to see a banker in a Tom Ford suit and a shiny Rolex in line for tacos next to a manual laborer in tattered jeans and dusty boots. Both hold a few pesos in hand, awaiting the same tasty lunch. Tacombi uniquely translates this most Mexican of experiences to NYC.

Tacombi
267 Elizabeth Street at Fonda Nolita
Nolita, New York City
917.727.0179

Photography by Matt Low and Grant Innes